Then it Dawned on Me - 10

 And then it dawned on me

The last travelogue I left you at the circus, the following morning was a 4:30am alarm, so we could grab a coffee for our 5am departure.  It was so we could enjoy the sunrise over Angkor Wat, which would provide a spectacular view as the rising sun changed the colours of the Temple.  Torches were provided for our dark walk from the bus to the pontoon on the temple lake.  It was interesting, but for me, very overrated as the rising sun was behind the temple, so the only changing colour was the sky with Angkor Wat temple providing a silhouette.

Even more bizarrely, just before the sun did actually appear, we were told it was time to leave.  I did get a photo of the sun peaking over one of the temple domes as we walked back to the bus, but they had organised a champagne breakfast, which was taking priority over my photo opportunities.

Breakfast was special, outdoors on grounds at the rear of a monastery on the edge of what in monsoon seasons would be a flood plain.  The food was great, but they had provided a local with no sense of rhythm with a bamboo xylophone, which he tapped all the way annoyingly through breakfast.  It sounded like the noise a 4 year old would make with a new Christmas present.

From breakfast to another temple complex, this one was a 3km x 3km site, surrounded by a 3 metre wall with access gained via 5 gates, North, South, East, West and Royal Gate.  These gates were built for elephant access so not wide enough to accommodate our large luxury coach, so we were transferred to two small buses, so we could make it through the South Gate.

On the road leading to the gate were stunningly carved guards designed to deter this with evil intent.

If we had not been to Angkor Wat, this would have been an impressive site, even with the scaffolding and cranes which were supporting the UNESCO-funded restoration.  I was starting to think we had seen the best temple and the rest would not compare.  How wrong I was, yet again!  

What was particularly interesting about this site was the wall carvings which painted a detailed picture of what life was like for the Khmer people who lived here in the 12th century.  I will spare you the details of the stories told by our guide, but share a photo which gives you a flavour of the scale and intricacies of the stone carvings.

After our walk through the main site, our guide instructed our driver to take us of a tour of the area within the walls which included a stadium where they played elephant polo.  Amazing that such an advanced culture could decline and almost disappear.  As a warning to us all, “me thinks”.

Now our guide, Vireak, our Khmer guide, has been going on about Angelina Jolie quite a bit, in particular, how much money she has donated to charities that are working on ridding the countryside of mines, as well as those that help the injured.  Now the reason for her involvement is linked to a movie she made in this part of Kampuchea and that links to our next destination.  Julie and I have not seen her movie Tomb Raider, but many of the spectacular scenes were filmed at what the locals call the Jungle Temple.  Suspecting special effects would mean the real thing was going to be a disappointment we approached the site with a degree of scepticism.  Wrong again!  From the first glimpse, it was clear this was something special.

The temple had been abandoned to the jungle, which had been busy weaving massive trees through walls and roofs in a manner that was really spooky.  It was also clear that the Tomb Raider director did not need any special effects, as this place had it all.

The “Ta Prohm Temple” is an incredible spectacle and not one to miss if you come to this part of the world.  Just make sure you bring lots of drinking water with you.  From this last visit we headed back to our hotel for a couple of hours pool time before we headed out on our evening adventure, billed as a Gala night.  

We were taken by coach to a remote area where we were greeted by musicians and ceremonial guards who remained lifeless until our whole party had gathered.  They then burst into life and escorted us through the jungle to a clearing which was filled with high tables and staff serving drinks and canapés. 

The backdrop was a temple with girls in traditional dress illuminated by powerful spotlights.  After a few announcements, we were escorted to the other side of the temple and to an area with a stage and dining tables.

The evening consisted of light shows, reenactments of royal entertainment, songs and traditional dances.  A very rare and amazing experience I will never forget.

Too many photos to share of an evening that was a delight to all the senses and an amazing end to our stay in Siem Reap, for tomorrow a 5-hour coach ride awaits to take us to our ship, the Scenic Spirit.  But that will be our next instalment.  

A slightly different link today, provides a connection to our jungle temple visit:

https://youtu.be/-0enc2VSiKE?si=Q35QesYbh24u5_0u