Cu Chi, Cu Chi Coooo - 15

 It was sad to leave the ship, but our coach to Saigon awaited and the crew had to prepare for another cohort of guests.  Saigon, which was the capital of South Vietnam, is our destination for the last stage of our Scenic odyssey.  As we journeyed towards the city, we were confronted with a different picture than the one we remembered from our last visit 22 years ago.  Then it was rare to see a car, but now there seem to be as many cars as scooters.  Also, the properties look more substantial, in stark contrast to those in Cambodia.  Clearly, the past 22 years have been good for Vietnam.  That wasn’t the biggest shock; as we got to the suburbs, our view ahead was of steel-and-glass towers.  We got the sense of a city using very modern architecture to signify a people proud of their past, but optimistic about their future.

Despite the 2.5 hour drive from the river, we were too early to check-in, so a city tour and a visit to the old presidential palace. The traffic was chaotic, but did not seem as bad as I remember, perhaps aided by pedestrian crossings, which even the scooters observed.  Now that is a really big difference from what I remember.

The South Vietnam President clearly liked modern design and did not mind spending his country's money on his comforts, for yet another stunning building.  The windows were covered with a bamboo design that allows air to flow into the windows and through the building irrespective of the winds direction.  Very cool, literally.  

For those of you who are as old or older than me, you may recall news reports showing this building at the end of the “American War” which is what to Vietnamese call it.  The news reports showed the front gates being knocked down by two tanks which marked the official end of the conflict.  The two tanks involved are still parked in the grounds with their gun turrets facing the palace, perhaps as a warning to those in power who have thoughts not in the national interest.  I wonder how our MP’s would behave if they were still seated over Guy Fawkes gunpowder?

I will spare you photos of the beautiful interior, but if you visit Saigon, it is well worth a look around.  Also worth mentioning, when we were here 22 years ago it was described by guides and referred to by locals as Ho Chi Minh City, but today we only heard it called Saigon.  From the palace to the war museum for a tour of propaganda central, at least that is how it felt, as it was only American indiscretions that were on display.  It was evident from the displays in the museum grounds that America left a lot of equipment behind when they left.

After lunch, we were able to walk to The Caravelle, our hotel for the next two nights, which I have to say was very impressive and within easy walking distance to the local 24-hour market.  Our scenic free-choice dinner was built as a seafood buffet banquet.  However, it also offered a range of seafood options you could have cooked to your liking and was amazing.  Unfortunately, we were sat near what we believed was a group of Chinese businessmen.    It seemed were having a competition to see who could drink the most and shout the loudest.  Nice to see how testosterone-fuelled gatherings are the same the world over.  Two funny moments over dinner for a husband and wife couple from Vancouver.   The husband did not like seafood, but, deferring to his wife’s desire to binge on everything the South China Sea has to offer, he ordered a steak.  What came was more than disappointing.

Waiter, “How did you find the steak sir?”

Diner, “Well, I just lifted up a chip and there it was.”

His wife, however, was having a ball and decided to try everything, even what was described as Mud Crawlers, which turned out to be very small snails.  After her and then Julie gave up trying to extract the little fellow from its shell, the waiter was asked for assistance.  He explained you hold the shell opening to your mouth and suck.  Well, when this was attempted, the look on the lady's face when the contents of the shell hit the back of her throat at speed was a picture.  It was evident the velocity and impact was only marginally worse than the taste.  No more Mud Creepers died that evening, and my advice is AVOID!

What I almost forgot to recommend was the roof bar in the Caravelle called Saigon Saigon.  Great cocktails and stunning views of the city, and THE place to see the sunset as shown above.

Our last day in Saigon was a tour to the Cu Chi tunnels.  This is a district north of the city, which even before the war had a history of using tunnels to confuse invaders.  The Vietnam War, however, kicked this activity into overdrive with 250 kilometres of tunnels built usually across 3 levels.  These tunnels provided sanctuary for 2000 troops at a time, and via secret entrances, soldiers could disappear from combat trenches if in danger of being overrun.   Using the tunnel network, they could reemerge behind the enemy lines.  Field hospitals, kitchens, toilets and even wells were all concealed underground. A marvel of ingenuity and a nightmare for the American troops to cope with.  Air was provided by bamboo pipes that reached the surface inside termite hills, and smoke from kitchen fires reached the surface via a series of filters so the smoke eventually emerged as morning mist.

Now just for you, I had to try the tunnels for size.

Although the tunnels were deep and narrow, they asked if any idiots in our group would like to explore a section with the view to emerging elsewhere.  Oh yes I did!

The site included a series of workshops that would have been below ground, but exposed to the surface so visitors could see for themselves how life below ground was supported.  Even factories that took unexplored American bombs and turned them into missiles and mines.  They offered a proud demonstration of the traps that were hidden in the undergrowth to injure, not immediately kill, American soldiers.  The logic being an injured man takes at least two others out of combat to take care of them.

From the tunnels back to our hotel via a short visit to the market, which was just 10 minutes from our hotel.  Then dress for our final Gala dinner and our last chance to party as a group.  All but two people on the group I will miss.  One a charmless Australian, the other a rude, obnoxious, thankless individual who spent the evening with only his wife willing to sit with him.  On her own, she seemed very nice, and we were convinced her rapid blinking was Morse code for SOS.  But who knows?  So sad to say goodbye to so many people we have become friends with, but so many WhatsApp numbers shared, I think many will remain in touch for a while at least.  One funny stunt to end the evening was a piece of candy, which was coated in dry ice.  The result when popped in the mouth was an impression of Puff the Magic Dragon.

For Julie and I we leave Scenic and Saigon and head 3 hours East to a beach resort on the South China Sea.  I suspect not much to report so I will bid you farewell and thank you for your company on what has been a truly amazing journey.  Wish us luck on our flight back via Dubai and hope to speak with you all real soon.  Below is a photo of our beach hotel, which ain’t too shabby.

And finally, my last music link, which sort of works, but I will let you be the judge:

https://youtu.be/V2aj0zhXlLA?si=KIP7KfapMAWgCW02

Farewell for now my friends.

Bordering on the Criminal - 14

Morning marked our departure from Phnom Penh, Cambodia and entry back into Vietnam.  Scenic provided one last visit into the city to explore the Royal Palaces.  Solid gold statues weighing over 90 kg  or 198 pounds, with a 25-carat diamond on her head dress and another on her chest.  The statue stood in a room with a floor of solid silver.  What may you ask is the justification for such wealth in a country that does not even have an irrigation system that allows farmers more than one harvest a year.  Over 85% of the precious metals and gems have been stolen from the palace while the king was in exile.  I suspect the point of the question was missed, or they feared the truth, if overheard, would have repercussions. Who knows?  

As we waved farewell to the city, I was left with the feeling that I was so glad I visited Cambodia, but no strong desire to return.  A country with enormous potential, but a government, like so many, only interested in the wealth and power they can acquire and retain for themselves.  It will be interesting to see over time if the relationship with Thailand leads to further conflict, as the sense is there is still enormous tension.  Factoid for you to emphasise this point, Siem Reap, (the home of Angkor Wat in the north) means Siam Beaten.  Siam, being the old name for Thailand, still has issues with the border line between the two countries.

When our ship arrived at the river crossing it was as if we had hit a wall of industrial operations across the width of the river for as far as the eye could see.  We were advised that the crossing was a formality, but as the hours ticked by, we realised something was amiss. I’ll come back to that later.  

Watching the industrial process was somewhat confusing until one of my fellow travellers explained what was happening.  The machinery was stripping the riverbed of sand, which is used in construction.  Problem is there are no controls on how much or over what area so it is destroying the ecosystem.  As a section of the riverbed is cleared, the extraction teams move on which is why they are now concentrated on the Cambodia border.  Any further into Cambodia requires permits and bribes, sorry licenses which is thankfully holding back the tide.  The bizarre sight is the ships that transport the extracted sand which they are known locally as Vietnamese submarines.  I think the next photo explains why.

Eventually, we were underway again, arriving at our anchorage for the night a few hours later than planned, which delayed the usual briefing on the following day's activities.  However, it was explained that the delay was due to border officials repeatedly re-examining the ship's papers and passenger passports and visas with the expectation of a bribe to speed things up.  A game of chicken developed until, eventually, the Cambodian officials ran out of excuses, and we were sent on our way.  It did provide a bit more time for me to show off my $8 Lalph Rauren shirt.

Our evening's entertainment was provided by another local orphanage that Scenic supports, and we were treated to an amazing display of Lion Dancing.  The dancers were amazing, providing a wonderful display and then organising themselves so we could all join in.  Thankful the cocktails meant we all thought we danced brilliantly.  All the dancing and cocktails meant we were all in for an internet night.

The next day was what is known as Scenic choice, where we have a range of trip options to choose from.  Julie and I selected the bird sanctuary, which turned out to be a one-hour boat trip to a very small town with a massive church.  Very unexpected.  The hour boat trip was very interesting as we passed small fishing boats that could easily have been doing the exact same thing a hundred years ago.

However, when we left the boat we boarded a local bus driven by a complete psychopath who used the horn more than the brakes and revelled in trying to force scooters off the road.  Numerous times we were thrown forward in our seats when he had misjudged yet another manoeuvre and had to brake violently.  This was not helped by his also making lots of mobile phone calls without the aid of a hands-free.  Longest hours drive I have ever had, and would like to say it was worth it, but no.  Tra Su Forest may have been a bird sanctuary before they built a bloody theme park around it, but not anymore.  First paddle boat ride around a circuit, with a mechanical voice telling us to smile for the camera perched on the river bank.  Then a massive speedboat ride on some narrow waterways.  The speedboat was so loud the only birds you saw was the ones flying away in fear.

Still, we did have a 90 minute coach ride back to the boat with Mad Max to look forward to, but made sure we sat further back in the coach.  Well we did survive despite a few more narrow misses, but of all the Scenic excursions, this was the only disappointment so can’t complain.  MUCH!   

Another evening with fantastic food, with the crew providing us with their traditional snacks and a display of their national costumes.  Yes our cruise director was from Germany.  While the evening was progressing, I had cause to visit our room and was greeted with an amazing sight.  One of the crew must have heard us talking about the cruise being an anniversary present to each other, so they decided to help us celebrate.  Looks like another internet night for us.

Our last day onboard was a combination of packing, visiting local craft businesses and tours of the galley and bridge, which now is mostly a warm blur.  The cruise has probably been the best we have ever experienced, amazing service, stunning attention to detail and faultless facilities.  If you are ever considering a holiday like this, take a look at the options Scenic offer as I am sure you won’t be disappointed.  A big thank you to Julie and Norman for recommending it to us.  

To finish a link to a theme tune that represents our ship quite well because of the quality of the internet onboard: https://youtu.be/Qksz72Xtpwc?si=i0UCbWRs8-eNFGQG

Unlucky for Some - 13

 Our day starts with us docking for 2 nights in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia.  It was certainly an unlucky place for the residents of Phnom Penh when Pol Pot rolled into town in April 1975.  It’s a modern-looking city today, but it carries some deep scars.  If you only want warm, happy holiday stuff, I suggest you skip the next three paragraphs.

Pol Pot’s rise to fame was on the back of claiming he was raising an army to fight for the return of Cambodia’s exiled King.  However, when he defeated the pro-US government, he viewed the residents of Cambodia’s capital as traitors.   He set about exterminating them through hard work on minimum food rations when they were effectively deported to the countryside.  Anyone viewed as being connected with any type of authority was sent to a converted school in the city centre, renamed S 21.  

Seventeen thousand entered the gates of the prison, and all were documented and photographed.  This now forms a pictorial memorial of all but 7 who died on site, or died in what became known as the killing fields.  In the photographs on display are young children and mothers with their babies, who were all treated as enemies of the state and murdered.

As with our next stop at the killing fields, I could not bring myself to photograph the horrendous things on display, just some external photos.  Three million Cambodians were murdered by their fellow countrymen who were convinced by Pol Pot they were the internal enemy.  A message for us all I think.  The killing Fields, if possible, was even worse.  We visited what was one of many camps where those “Traitors” were sent for termination.  The area was littered with sites in various states of excavation where people were murdered while standing on the edge of their soon to be grave.  Most were dispatched by a blow to the back of the neck with a heavy bamboo stick, as they did not want to waste ammunition.  I will spare you the worst thing we were confronted with, as even recalling the description made me feel physically sick.  To honour the memory of the fallen, a memorial chamber has been built to hold excavated remains.  All 17 stories of it.  Again, no photos, just one of a moving memorial on the site.  We are glad we went, but we would never want to go again.

Welcome back to those who skipped the bad stuff.  As I am writing this blog outside of Cambodia and have no plans to go back, I can tell you the current President was one of Pol Pot's top generals.  In fear for his own life when Pol Pot became increasingly paranoid, he and his men deserted the Khmer Rogue, but later led an army with Vietnam’s support to retake the country.  Cambodia is in effect a corrupt dictatorship, just one party still led by a man who supported Pol Pots rise to power.  The party have many offices across the city that more closely resemble palaces than government buildings.  Because of corruption when the locals try to start their own business, the government mafia look for what is effectively protection money.  There is a stark demonstration of the consequences of this when we approached the river border between Cambodia and Vietnam.  As you cross the border, what were empty river banks are suddenly filled with fish factories and associated private businesses.  It struck me that Vietnam claims to be communist, but is not, whereas Cambodia claims to be an open, free-market democracy, but is the opposite.  Weird!

To lighten our mood, for $15 we booked a Tuk Tuk for the afternoon to explore the city on our own, as well as make a visit to the Central Market.  Compared to the poor countryside, the city felt very affluent, with many very expensive cars cruising around the town, either linked to government officials or the families of “Tycoons”.  For about half a million dollars, you can purchase the title “Tycoon” which according to a local in an unguarded moment, provides preferential access to government contracts.

The following morning at 4:38 am, Julie and I were rudely awoken by a call to prayer from the only mosque in Phnom Penh.  Despite less than 1% of the population being Muslim, the mosque is allowed to have a loudspeaker blast across the city at what I would call an ungodly hour.  Now what is wrong with a phone app that provides those who wish, with a personal call to prayer, rather than inflict beliefs based wailing on those of us nursing a really bad hangover.  

Despite the early start, we enjoyed another wonderful breakfast and shared a table with a lovely American couple from South Dakota.  The WiFi on the ship is our only complaint as it has been very poor and provides the context for what follows.   Now Julie was chatting about staying in contact with family and friends and asked if they were able to get internet last night.  Well our new friends looked shocked and it was clear we had made some kind of serious error, but no.  They thought Julie had asked “ Did you get intimate last night.”  Needless to say this misunderstanding provided many hours of fun over the remaining days together.  

Our second day provided a relaxing afternoon and we probably made too much use of the pool bar before all of us onboard hit the streets in a convoy of Tuk Tuks.  This was to explore the city at night which was buzzing.

Our tour took us to a rum distillery for some free tasting and to be honest, I would give it a miss as Henley Distillery rum is soooo much nicer.  The only other slightly distasteful part of our evening was our tour ran through the red light district.  Gawking at what to us looked like very young girls available for rent was not a highlight of the Phnom Penh evening.  

Arrival at our ship offered 2 delights.  First, a band for some pre-sleep disco exercise.  Second and most important, the captain had rotated the ship so now our cabin was against the dock and protected from the wailing mullah which offered an undisturbed nights sleep.

Another link to finish, this one inspired by our evening of dancing away in an exotic paradise, enjoy: https://youtu.be/h0ffIJ7ZO4U?si=jWBBWDZBec8PIDXE

ABM - 12

Another beautiful sunrise delivered another wonderful day in Cambodia, with a couple of tours designed to engage us even deeper with the culture.  First was a session at the local temple with a couple of senior Monkees.  Don’t care what you say, this is now the official collective noun for monk.  As I have now met more than the Dalai Lama on this trip, I believe I have the authority.  Hence the phrase ABM, Another Bloody Monk, who all seem to mumble unintelligible and claim it is a blessing that warrants a gift.  One big scam if you ask me.  As our ship was rammed into the bank, we were able to walk ashore and guided up into a small village.  It struck me the property of a country was disproportional to the wealth on display by the local religion and here was yet again no different.  The locals housed in wooden sheds on stilts, while the monkees lived in palatial buildings adorned with golden statues and a murals depicting the life of Buda on every wall and ceiling.  

As we headed towards our blessing venue, we noticed many small children calling out “Hello” with increasing confidence.  As if they had established we were friendly, they approached with arms outstretched, seeking a hand to grasp.  It was so nice to be escorted by these friendly, happy children who were very talented pickpockets.  No, that is a joke.  They were just inquisitive and enjoyed the novelty of walking with strangers, but what struck me was that, despite the heat, their hands were cool to the touch.

In the temple, we were arranged in a line on either side of the carpet, which would be the corridor the monks would use to enter.  While entering, we were required to hand each of the 10 monks cash.  Seems like nothing is free these days. We then knelt before the two senior monks and received a blessing.  The mumbling rhythmic chant resounding off the temple walls was surprisingly calming, and we could definitely see the attraction.  It might be an opportunity to set this sort of thing up on a pay-per-view channel back home.  

Now just as I was really starting to feel my chakra reach its peak of enlightenment, I was shocked back to reality when struck in the face by numerous flower buds.  In the photo above, you can see a box which, while we were deep in meditation, they opened and started throwing buds at us.  I suspect it is designed to make sure our eyes were closed as the buds were small but dense and tossed with precision.

Lunch back on the ship provided another opportunity to overindulge in the stunning choice of food on offer.  All this spiritual stuff certainly game me an appetite and the need for a snooze in the pool before our afternoon excursion.  Tuk Tuks awaited us for our afternoon excursion to a small village on the banks of the Mekong.  We wandered between the houses on stilts with Mao providing information on how these villages live on what seemed to us to be just a subsistence level.  Despite the poverty and our evident wealth by comparison, the people were friendly.

The houses were all similar in design, with the main living area built on posts to avoid monsoon flood damage.  The upstairs floors were bamboo poles with gaps between each one to allow airflow, but provided almost a reflexology feel as you walked across them in bare feet.  The family home that had agreed to host us allowed us upstairs and showed us around their garden, whose main purpose was for their grazing cows.

With the aid of our guide, we were able to explore the family's life in detail and found them to be very open and honest in responding to all our questions.  With permission, I captured a photo of one of the sons with his child relaxing in the shade, which really captured the relaxed feel of the place.

In the background, you can see the large what look like vases used to store rainwater, and right at the back, the outdoor kitchen.  

When we got back to our ship I knew it was a particularly hot day as outside our cabin window a local farmer was cooling off his cows in the river Water.

Julie and decided to follow their example and headed back to the pool for yet another cooling swim before dinner.  A real treat was in store as the chef had prepared some local delicacies.  Tarantula, grasshopper, silk worm, frog and river beetle.  Despite not yet having had a lot to drink, we dived into all but the beetle, which was large and just as it sounds.  In all honesty, the frog, tarantula and grasshopper were very tasty.

The following day offered us a tour of silk island, so called because this is where silk is produced from the larvae, spun on looms into material.  The place did not look like it had changed in a thousand years and it was fascinating to watch the looms clatter away with material at various stages of production.

Our evening entertainment was provided by a local orphanage, which performed a series of traditional dances in fantastic costumes.  We are certainly still packing a lot in, the only problem being that time is passing too quickly and we don’t want to think of leaving this wonderful ship and crew.

To finish a musical link to not one of my favourite singers, but a song that matches or current journey, enjoy: https://youtu.be/FOt3oQ_k008?si=qFfsaXvSNYixcTSE

Ship Ahoy - 11

A leisurely 10am departure provides a welcome respite from the previous few early morning starts and late evening finishes.  Today we head to the river Mekong and board our luxury ship Scenic Spirit, home for the next 8 days.  Our 6-hour bus ride was broken every 90 minutes with what is known as a Happy Room stop.  Happy Room is the name given to the toilets as most people appear to be happier after a visit.  Our first stop was a 1,000-year-old bridge and boy, did it look its age.  We crossed on foot, passing those who had left the ship we were about to board.  They only had good things to say, which was promising.

As our drive continued southeast, the scenery on either side gently passed, settling into a consistent blend of dry Paddy fields, since they have no irrigation and grow only one crop a year, dependent on the monsoon rains, which were still some weeks away.  Thank goodness.  As the land became more fertile, the crop mixture developed rapidly, alternating between rows of rubber trees, cashew nuts, tapioca, corn and a variety of fruits such as Pomelo, a cross between an orange and a grapefruit.  Our new guide, Mao, who came from a farming family, explained the different crop yields and their values.  

As is often the case the last hour of our journey felt like the longest, not made any easier by the heavy traffic and major road works that was between us and our ship. I deliberately did not say dock, as apart from one stop in Phnom Peng, access to and from our ship was via a river bank into which our ship had buried its bow. The crew then used an ingenious series of ladders and in some cases sand banks to provide us with access to and from the shore.  The photo below is of one of the easier access stops.

The ship is stunning, with large rooms, high-end furnishings and fixtures, and even safe tap water.  We had more crew than passengers, which made the service exceptional.  Only surprise was the passenger numbers were down, as 10 people had cancelled because of the recent fighting between Cambodia and Thailand.  What also helped was being greeted with a chilled glass of champagne, which you can get at any bar at any time your heart desires.

Our evening arrival provided us with an opportunity to enjoy a stunning sunset from the sun deck, a pre-dinner drink by the pool and then an amazing meal.  Lots of choice from the set menu options, as well as cooked-to-order regulars. A wonderful start to what was clearly going to be an amazing cruise.  Although we set sail at 6pm, which provided us with a tropical view gently gliding past every window, before we settled down to sleep, the ship dropped anchor in the middle of the channel, so the gentle throb of the engines did not disturb anyone’s sleep. Oh bliss.

Our first full day started with a hill climb to a small town that had developed around a monastery.  Great views and a cool breeze made the 39 °C feel almost bearable.  The monks provided an education, which, from what I understood, focused a lot on meditation techniques, which was clearly a benefit to the youngsters' mental well-being.  Our guide, Mao, had trained as a monk and talked very fondly about how it had made him a much better person.  We later discovered he went to the monastery as he was a bit of a handful as a child.  The next photo is a view after our climb on a path through a cemetery, which was clearly being well looked after.

To finish our session, Mao had arranged for a novice monk to join us so we could question him about his life and studies.  He was an impressive 12-year-old and able to explain why the monastery was the right choice for him and his family.  

After receiving a blessing, we headed to what was described as the dining hall, where a senior monk was offering counsel to those seeking advice.  The hall was large and a hive of activity as locals brought food for the monks and staff, which was laid out in pans across a large carpet.  The locals clearly view supporting the monks as a privilege as more deliveries arrived as our guide Mao decided to sample some of the dishes.

It was nice to get back onboard and into the pool where “Dara” the keeper of the bar kept us well hydrated with chilled drinks.  Worth noting we were told all the staff would know our names within 24 hours and they sure did.   So nice when arriving at the pool bar to hear, “Barry, can I get you a drink.”  Voice of an angel.  

Our afternoon excursion was a tuk-tuk ride around the town, with a stop at another temple, where our guide, Mao, mentioned, for the one millionth time, that he had been a monk. 

From the temple to a family farm run by a lovely couple who spent an hour with us showing us their farm and answering our questions.  Very interesting afternoon and I learned a lot about the local power politics.  A brief photo stop on our way back to the ship was an unexpected bonus: a bamboo bridge.  At 25c a head to cross it is very busy during the dry season, but is washed away when the monsoon comes and has to be rebuilt again from scratch.

To finish as is usual a musical link.  This one is based on 2 premise: the plural for monk is Monkee, and they are all believers.  Enjoy!

https://youtu.be/5tpxXDILZHs?si=L2w6PV1YkVuZb-sA